Mahaweli Reach, a peaceful Kandyan retreat

The Mahaweli Reach Hotel started life as an intimate tea planter's guesthouse back in the 1970s and, since then, it has evolved into a medium sized hotel containing 112 rooms. It is now under the control of the Universal Group, which runs a number of resorts in the Maldives.

Simple comforts

For those travellers looking for the type of facilities offered by the likes of the UAE's swish, five star - or more - hotels, then the Mahaweli Reach is probably not for you.

But what the hotel undoubtedly lacks in top-end offerings, it certainly makes up for with its warm and very personal service and its peaceful setting. Indeed, the hotel is very reminiscent of an old style country club with its faux Roman pillars entwined by colourful climbing plants and its easy-going ambience.

If you do need a few creature comforts, however, then one of the hotel's two river view executive suites would be best. The rooms have been recently updated and contain flat screen TVs and DVD players, with one in the bedroom and another in the living area, ideal for a lazy night in. The rooms also boast cavernous bathrooms which also have sizeable Jacuzzi baths in which to soak after a hard day's hill trekking.

The hotel has plans to create an entire executive wing right beside the river and, alongside this, a separate spa. But the Mahaweli Reach does already contain a small Ayurvedic treatment centre in which to invigorate and soothe tired limbs.

Perfectly located, easily connected

But one of the Mahaweli Reach's strongest suits is its location a few kilometres outside the hustle and bustle of downtown Kandy, which is a mere rickshaw ride away. The town's various sites, including the Sri Dalada Maligawa, one of the country's most important Buddhist temples, are thus in easy striking distance. But, so too, is the enticing hill country in which the small city nestles.

The Mahaweli Reach makes a more than convenient base for a few days worth of hill country exploration. If you venture this far inland from Colombo, then it is a must to take the winding roads up into the tea plantations, making sure you guzzle down plenty of the cool, refreshing air along the way. The Knuckles Range, for instance, barely an hour from Mahaweli Reach, offers fascinating hillside villages and breathtaking views.

Golf fans will also be in their element. The Victoria Golf and Country Resort, only 25 kilometres from the hotel, offers one of the most picturesque courses anywhere in the world, with forested hills and a vast reservoir serving as an impressive backdrop. Players will find the short third hole the most challenging - if only because it is impossible to keep one's eyes on the ball and not on the view.

Holidaymakers with just a limited amount of time available, or those with a sense of adventure, could take advantage of the direct seaplane service that not only connects with the Mahaweli Reach but also with the Victoria Golf and Country Resort - ideal if the thought of the road or rail trip seems off-putting.

Personal touches

Undoubtedly one of the best things about the Mahaweli Reach Hotel is that it doesn't try to be something it isn't. It prides itself on individual touches, from petals strewn artistically across your bed to the hotel's chef enthusing about cooking authentic and wholesome Sri Lankan dishes.

The Mahaweli Reach may not have the shine, sophistication and pizzazz of a modern five star hotel or resort but it offers charm, a hint of character and, most importantly, the chance to kick back off of the beaten track and savour something of Sri Lanka.