Istanbul: An eclectic mix of old and new

Istanbul is a sprawling city that extends to both the European and Asian sides of the Bosphorus strait, making it the only metropolis in the world that is situated on two continents. The Turkish city's origins date back to the 7th century B.C., and throughout its rich history it has served as the capital of the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires.

We flew to Istanbul direct from Dubai via Emirates, with the flight taking a little over four hours. Most visitors can purchase a visa upon arrival at the airport, but you must pay by cash (US dollars, euros, or pounds sterling). The price varies per country, with the cost averaging about $20.

We stayed at the Grand Hyatt, which is located in the centre of 'modern' Istanbul. The hotel is a short cab ride to many of the popular tourist sites and neighbourhoods in the city, and it is also near the tram and metro. We found the service and food at the hotel to be first rate, and its relatively large pool was a nice bonus.

The room was comfortable and clean, but its tube TV and slightly worn furniture looked a little dated. On the plus side, the hotel is located on a quiet street, which we found refreshing after long days dealing with the crowds at the busy tourist sites.

Surprisingly, even though the hotel is quite large and situated in the centre of town, we had difficulty finding taxi drivers who knew where it was located. However, given the sheer size of the city and the large number of places to stay, our experience was probably not uncommon. Unfortunately, the hotel was quite full when we arrived and we were unable to get a room with a view of the Bosphorus. These rooms are always in high demand throughout the city, and it is easy to understand why when you see the strait for the first time.

Cafes and restaurants are seemingly everywhere in Istanbul, and food is definitely one of the highlights of the city. There is a wide variety of options on offer, and you don't have to spend a lot to get a great meal. Cafes also provide a great opportunity for kicking back and people watching.

One of the more unnerving aspects of Istanbul is riding in taxis, as most drivers we encountered seemed to take delight in watching us squirm as they darted through traffic, narrowly missing other cars by inches. Many of them were also dishonest; it's recommended that you ask your concierge how much your taxi journey should cost and ensure that your driver agrees to that price beforehand.

We spent four full days in the city, which gives you enough time to see most of the major sites without feeling like you have to rush through them.

Istanbul highlights

Highlights of our trip included:

Old City - On our first day we took a guided tour of the Old City area of Sultanahmet, where we visited the Haghia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and Hippodrome. All of these attractions are within easy walking distance of each other, and they did not disappoint. It's easy to see why the Hagia Sophia was viewed as the greatest church in Christendom for almost 1000 years, and its subsequent conversion to a mosque exemplifies how the city combines both East and West. Topkapi Palace, with its four courts and a harem, is also a feast for the eyes, but its crowning virtue is the panoramic view of the Marmara Sea and the Bosphorus.

Dolmabahce Palace

- Built in the 19th century, this massive palace is the largest in Turkey, and is an interesting blend of European and Ottoman styles. It's definitely worth a visit, as it houses one of the largest chandeliers in the world and is beautifully situated on the Bosphorus.

Bosphorus cruise

- No visit to Istanbul is complete without a cruise on the Bosphorus, which takes about an hour and a half and offers gorgeous views of the city. Our ship was mostly filled with locals, which added to the charm of the excursion.

Princes' Islands

- Another great vantage point of the city can be obtained by taking a ferry to the nearby Princes' Islands, which are located in the Marmara Sea. The ferry stops at four of these islands, with Buyukuda being the most popular as it is well known for its carriage rides. However, we found the island to be overly crowded, and in retrospect would have preferred stopping at one of the other islands.

Grand Bazaar

- Opened in 1461, this market has over 1,200 shops, mostly grouped by type of goods. It can get very crowded but you can find some nice bargains if you are prepared to haggle. We were able to negotiate the price of a Turkish rug down to $300 from an initial starting point of $750.