Hotel Review - Dwarikas Hotel, Kathmandu

By Mark Brown

Within minutes of leaving Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport and witnessing the dilapidated chaos and grime of the Airport Road and Ring Road my sense of adventure for individuality was on the wane and I started feeling slightly remorseful for not booking a safer 'big name' option. 15 minutes later we arrived outside the Dwarikas Hotel.

Situated on a busy road in central Kathmandu's relatively up market area of Battisputali approx 10-30 minutes (depending upon traffic) away from the entertainment/tourist hub of Thamel, Dwarikas Hotel is named after the late Dwarika Das Shrestha, a man who dedicated his life to preserving Nepali culture and heritage.

The fruit of his passion is a divine collection of three small terracotta palaces situated across quaint courtyards creating an enchanting museum/hotel. The hotel is a collection of Newari-styled brickwork, antique sculpting, traditionally wood carved windows and 16th century terracotta finishing which collectively has ensured that the Dwarikas hotel gains the coveted PATA Heritage Award.

Upon entering the main lobby my fears immediately vanished and I sensed we were in for something special. Although just metres away from a bustling main road, the hotel and adjacent courtyard retain a peaceful and much needed tranquillity.

On our way to one of the 72 deluxe rooms situated in the adjacent 'Lumbini Palace' building across the courtyard, I was beginning to see why the Dwarikas was the hotel of choice for the likes of Hilary Clinton, ex-president Jimmy Carter, HRH Prince Charles and the current Royal family of Spain when in town.

The hotel rooms themselves are extremely spacious and elegantly designed. The parquet floors, the enormous bed, the bathroom suite complete with top of the range Villeroy and Boch bath tubs all add to the sense of luxury. Just give me the Gulf standard Ipod docking station and a plasma TV and I would never leave.

In-room entertainment includes a large screen yet slightly dated Samsung television with a host of mainly English and Hindi news and entertainment channels, CD player with a good selection of in-house CDs which can be listened to through the bathroom suite's in built ceiling speakers. Internet access is available in the room but not wireless. However there are Gulf-friendly power adaptors and a sizable study area.

The bathroom is exceptionally well designed and spacious, complete with walk in shower, separate WC area, his and hers sinks and additional wardrobe. The complimentary toiletries are all delivered in mini terracotta pots and anything that could be sculptured or wood carved pretty much is. Attention to detail, charm and luxury emanates throughout. Even the outside swimming pool is a replica of the 12th century Malla dynasty baths...suitably fit for kings.

There are two main dining options available at the Dwarikas. Krishnarpan is the instantly charming traditional Nepalese restaurant serving set menus that can consist of anything between six and 22 courses per person. Each course is served on antique plates and bowls and even the tables are pieces of history with centuries old lattice woodwork.

Toran offers a more conventional dining option, situated in and around the picturesque leafy courtyard offering an excellent international menu with a distinctly Italian/Asian bias. Once ordered don't expect to see any food delivered to your table within a sensible time frame. It's worth highlighting however during my time in Nepal I noticed there is a positive correlation between slow service with the quality and freshness of food. Toran doesn't disappoint the taste buds and servings are both well presented and generous.

Perhaps what surprised me the most at Dwarikas was the availability of modern business facilities including a sizeable conference hall comfortably accommodating up to 100 people. A business centre also provides fast out-of-room internet access with all the usual up to date facilities one would expect from any business hotel.

My only gripe was the 23% compulsory service charge and tax (which isn't exclusive to the Dwarikas but applies to ALL hotels in Nepal). This certainly adds up as menu prices are already on a par with Gulf hotels and could possibly be an annoyance to the more price sensitive leisure traveller.

Our stay at the hotel was a truly enchanting experience and easily one of the main highlights of a fantastic trip. The rooms, facilities, food and hospitality would all score top marks and I would fully recommend the Dwarikas to anybody travelling to Nepal. The combination of modern luxury alongside tradition and preserved culture will ensure Dwarikas will be a unique experience for any kind of traveller.